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32X

1

2

3

1

2

3

4

5

6

'£jA/\^^^^,^.JLy ^A^>t.^^W^^^^^\/e^

h

NORTHWARD

OVER THE 'GREAT ICE

A Xarrafivc of Life and If'ork along f/ic

S/iorcs am/ upon f/ic Inferior Ice-Cap

of Northern Green /and in f/ie Years

1886 and /8(;/-/Sgy

^^•'>H..,>, AX,. AN ACCOUNT OKTMK i>.SCOVKKV AND HK.NCWX,; HOMK OK .HK •'SAVIKSU,.;," OK

5>

<;ki;at cai'f.-vokk mktkokitks

BV

ROBERT E. PEARY

•nil. K.NCINKKK, r.S.N.

^vn^ maps, i.iau<ams. and Anoin k.(;ht hu.

n.LUSTRAIloXs In Two Voi.cmks

VOI. II.

IVDRED

fSZ

NKW VORK

FREDERICK A. STOKI-S COMPANY

MDCCCXCVIII

C<)i'\Ki(;iir, iScjS,

1!y fredkrick a. stokks company.

All rii^/i/s r(X,rzr(L

Prksswork \\\ Tuv. Univhjsitv Pkcss, Cami'nidi.k, U.S.A.

CONTKNTS OF VOL. If.

PART [[[.

N<'RTII-r;Ri.:EXr.A.\I> KXrKl .IT|, ,x qV I893-1804.

cmaiti:n

I. i'llll.ADKI.I'llIA in CaI'I; \V)RK II. H()lSi;-|!(||,|,|x ; \x,, Mix,,^,; III.— AtTL-.MX WD WlVllR Work I\'-— <>\ Till. " (iRKAT 1( !■; "

v.— Ox I,,,: "(IRKAT I.,," (c;v///////,v/) .

VI. DlSCOXKRV OF TliK " SaVIKSI 'K "

^■II.— Rr-coxxAissAXii; ok Mkiaii.i.k Hav—Asiru

VIII.— .\rKTKoRor,„;,i:.u, AXI) ACRORAr, XoTKs— li,

>\\1X

PART I\'.

NORTH-CRKKM.AM) F. XI'K l)[T[( )\ of 1S94-1S95. I.— Boat Vovaok, Fahox jo I,,,,,,;,.; II..._H„AT \-oNA.;|.:. I.'A,,r.,x to I.oi,,;,, ( C\>,/nwr,/ ) III. TriK Wai.rcs Hi XT

I\'.— TkAXSI>OR||x,; >rKAr TO THK Foi,,;,.;

\'. Fait. Iik-Cai. Work VI.— Fai,,. HrxTiXG, Arctic Day axi. Xk;,,!'

I

103 131

205 225

265

2«5

.5 03

VI

Contents of Vol. II

< H \riiM<

VII.— DKcKMlil-.K J()IKM.;v K. ('aim., \', .rk VIII.— Rl It KN IKOM r.\V\. VoKK 'X. WlMKK k()( TINK

X.— Si,i:i.(;i.; 'Iru's or -mK i,,,.x,; \|,;,n

XI. .\!lS( KI.I.ANKA . . . _

XII.— A WiKK AT i'lTKKAIIWIK . XIII.— Ul'WAkI) I(l,-(\\|. joiKM V

XIV. Thk I, am I III v()\i, nil; I(i,-('a|. XV. -Till, |,ANi, |!,,v,,M. TMi, Ick-Cai- ( ( Vv///////,v/ ) XVI.— RiriiRN I(k.Ca|. |,,i i<m,;v

XVII. A I "Ilk Till.; R|.;ii K\ .

OHJKCI:, AM. RksCITS ,,K \. .R I H-( Jrkkm.am. KxI'KI.ITK.N 1S93 -H) iH(j^ ^

PAirr V.

SU.M.MKk VOVACKS OF 1 896- 1897. Thk "Saviksi-k" or Capk York Mktkoritis

INDEX OF VOL. 11.

S ( )F

fA(,R

341

355

371

393 4'7 435 459 4«3 5 "5

5^.=;

55«

551 619

ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS, AND DIACRAMS

IN VOL. II.

KOLTK OK J-AI!kAI)()R I.Al!k.\|)()K SI'KAKINC

I.AIiR \|)()K MAN

JOSKPiriM.; DfKIlllsCIl |.|.AkV KSMMU ,;,Kk c,K LTEKXAVIK

'rni'; •• kai.co.v " ' '

AHXCoDoi'i, \|i(,

'ini'; lukkos ' *

OUR STA TKkooM ' ' ' ' lUTI I.K IIAklJOlR I.AIikADOk liSKIMn

NOkTii (;ki;i;.\i,A.\i) Jai-'idi

... -^ <'Hi:K\r.A.VI) ITI ()|- '

iKJLSTKIMK.kC, (ikKEMAX ) A r)-INCIf IIKAITV

XATFVKS OF LI'KkXAVIK'

PAM'ok Mokcii AM) HIS cii'mm

WIIAI.KRS' LOOKOUT. DLCK '

I m. "lAI.COX's- F[R|.Mi, V CAI'K YORK FR().\r TJIF Soiril '

PAPF'^il^^vf^TT'^'-''^^'^'^^^^'^'-^'-'-^ .IKI) S-IA |.. \IK\V OF FAICOV

':^:\) >»<; niF IIOLSF . }imi\ AM) TIJF l),„;s 1-A.\I)1\(; A liURkO . A IFA.M OF l)0(;s OKKV SANDSTONF ( l.fFFS A SCFXF IX TIIF \V \I Rl's

C Pr'^CfV-v^ HLIOF lu'uTF (^ AI'K AI.LXAXDFR

CRVSTAL PAI.ACF fJFArrFR ICK-I'ACK OFF LrrTI.EToX

A.

IS LA XI )S

<>n//s/</i

lo

N

«93

HARliOlk TRASH ICE

IFUXT OX i:OARI)

(KAXFi LSLAXD

1' \(.f!

3 4

i

S

') II

12

'3 •4

•5

10

iS •9

JO

Ji -'3

26 2,S

30 31 32 36 37 3>S 39 40

41 42

44

45 46 4,S 49 50 5>

53 55

vin

Illustration:

i;i»(;i'; or iiii; r\i:k< >ki;\ tack siri: <ii loi Akis iiousi.

•Ilir: SAVACI. < l.ll-l'S OK \nKll|l'\II

S(i;\i'. IN oLkiKs i:as

'•siii: ki Aciii;!) kok iiik <;<>i.i»i,n i

hi; \i>i'ii:<K

I III. i)i;i'\k riNC ■• iAi,(()N" . r.\( ( iNcikM.i) AiK lur iiii: i>i:i'Aki r iikM' si Alii. s ( ii' riiK !,( »i»(;i. . M kkoi NKiNcs ()K Till; i,()i)(;i: . Till'; mwi.k iioik ....

.\ I'.Ukko Ik AiN

I'AV i>.\\

riiK i.oixii'; \i'.\ki.\(i coMi'i i;ii( i\ IIII'; i:.\i;\'s I'iksr ni;ri.\(i . i\ 'I 111; i)i.\i.\(i-k()().M

i;k

AC

IIII'; '• KAi Til " srovi; itv Till'; (;i.a< 'rill'. {;()Mi'i.i;ii;h i.ontii; .

(•|,IMI!IN(i ro IIIK MORAIM';

i,i;i'; AT 'riii'; .moraixk . 'rAii.iMiai';

Sl(;,\k-U)AI<- .MOI NTAIN, MlkkOR (i

iii;Ai)iiK( !•;

Kiksr c;ami' ox tiik ici;-<ai" riii'; (AC UK ici.oos .... ■rill'. i'.xkTV .\'r iiii'; ici.oo.s

M.\KI.\(i (AMI-

si;ci'RiN(; .\ i.oo.sr; ixx)

TCK.N'I.NC Oir

Ki;.AI)Y TO ST.\kT ....

<AMr KgriNo( ri.\i

"'rill.lk I'lk A MASS OF ICK AND SNOW SOMK KkO/i;\ !• AST ....

AFiKk Till'; ki;rrk.\ ....

IIKAI)l'Ii;< K

TiFK sKix.M, .\r riii; ca( iik

ON Till'; ki;rrk\

"siiMMi;R \vi:.\ riii;k"

KF.SSril 'I'lIF i.FADEK

FNIRIKIN

liALDWiX

CI..\kK

I'F.VRV

TIIK "SAVIKSOAH" AS KXCAVATKI) AND ICK

in;.\i)i'iFci';

SI.KDCIXC INTO (JLklKS V,.\\ SAVIKSOAH MOIXTAIX FR(J.M SITI'. < FACK OF MARIi; (iLACIKR SAVAOK (JLACIFR

COAST i;x Rorri'. to i'i;ri;R.\ii\viK

FACSIMII-p; OF I 'AG I', OF XOTK-IiOOK "A CUTTKRIXC \VFNTR\' \)\\ " .

TANIKPAII

I'Ui'IK AT NKTIULUMI

Kkl

Ak

FR(

)F

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LAX

ii;

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\ f

i;r.

Fir

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Tin

F.\l

.SKi

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6()

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OS

70

7<

75 7*> 77 7S So Si

S2

S4

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99 101

"4 10:;

IC()

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sxow

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-.) 24

-5 12O r2S

-9

•34

5'' 57 5')

(iO

'M

'■5 6(1

6S

;o

7' 73

7t

73 70

i( ii;

Illustrations

TKAVICI.l.lXf; ( ()Ml'.\\[()\s

A LAVK AT I'lnowiK

(iKTTIN'C |)(k;s .\( k(.SS \ I |'\|,'

T\ I'KAI, (OAsr .s( I \|

AT CAI'I'! \{)kK

iiAul) A^'w/;!!!-^' '"'•• ^"^''.ioK,,,, :

I. IMS <»l' |,|().\ ISI.WI) lAIMMiiCi:

vfilVlll^''" '■''"■'• '" ::::'■■

■'■'''i'i.rl'i^,^;'^, '^^" '^^^"'■■'^■<APH SIIKI.TS „K „;nl:

UKADIMKt:!';

'lAIM'IIX'l';

HKAf^PnV',?^"^""'^"^ '''■^^•^^' ''■'■■::

;;A wild Fl!k-(|,A|) (RFU"

c^i^A-nuir"" '''' '"'- "'"^ "•■'^^■" siioKK'.;

A STKKWI OF DkiFT "ick" ' ' " ' " " I'lKI) CLIFFS OF SALXDFkS Isr wi,' NUMLkoiS KFI-IIWAKl s'^^ Tl Flk VFsrs ' "

Jfyi^'i^- V^' "'>\i"-i"AKTv hit'

KK^Uk,^';^l'•i!•^^l;-^-'-^n.: .^

TAn'nFrF'"'^"" ^"'-" ^^^^•■is" : : : :

MLSU-MI-si- (^LACIFk ' '

lIKADl'niCF

\(

OK THLS I'RECII'I

"ONL OF TIIF irK-STkF'v\FS

- I'IERCFI) I!V a MAfiNFFriFXT TLXXFI "

>AI)LX(; FOk TIIF AkClIWAV ^'-^•^'•''

nnniAH) uLAciFk ""^"^^-^^

VIFW IX OLklKS i;\V ■■

J^^T * •^^''' ''^ <»I-KIKS IJAY

SAL.MOX-klVFR CLALILR . ' '

Ml'. (IVkFALCO

rl>FXTV';rp^\'v'"-*'^^^f'^ ^^ (avf'of'tiif WIX

XI )S

)L'-

ou;

IX

'.^5 •.i7 ')S

1(1

'4-'

'l.i 'l»

l|0

»I7 .|S'

1 ;j '54 '5^ '5S 'S'J '74

176

'77

-•0()

307

20(J J 10 21 I 2IJ 21,5 -14

^'5

2J7

21.S

-•9 220 221

224 226

22.S

-MI 2,13 ~.]4 -35 ^37 -3« -39 24 1

-43

Illustrations

WAI.Kl'S ni;.\i)

hi; Ahi'ii.ci

A KAKNAII iriMK IilSMANlI.IXd A n I'lK . MV I'M KI.K CKI'W .... ONI': dh' \\\ KAVAKIkS .

i';.\sri:K\ iad <»|. iii,Ki!i;Rr islam

A in;KI) OK WAI.KL'S .... I'XSr l(» .\ WALK US ....

\\.\k!'i\(; .\ wAi.kis ri'ox an ice-pan

Ol'R ICK-K.M-r

"A (;KK.\r lii.Kc i.iKK an ockan linki

" i-u rrixc 'riii: sionk" .

MV w.M.kLs ii,i;i:r ....

\Vi;i,((>Mi: l!.\( K I'O KAKNAII

i.\ Kui.i. wixriiK rk; iii;ai)|'II.(.:k

Till'; .MISIKI;SS OK 11 IK iri'iK \VO.\lK\ liril.DINC IC.I.OCtS

ri,.\.\ OK \ii's.\N(;\v.\irs nkw I(;i,(

l(;i.oo IXDKK CONSTKrCTlON

\vi\ri;K ici.oo

'•DKKSSKIi IN A NONDKSCRll' T R!(i

Till': "Marn i'i;arv" and iikr rRi;\v L'NDKR I'lii'. scL'i.rrrRi:D ci.ikks A (;iA.\r liAsrioN ....

N.\R\\II.\I, SKUM

KOXd-TAILKI) DUCKS AND BLACK GUILl.KMOT

AR( TIC ll.VRK

A WALRUS STKAK ....

'IWILI'IKCK

l;o\VDOlX (iLACIKR IN OCTOUIIR

III.ADriKCK

Li:i'; AND IIKNSOX SrAKI'IN(; KOR rilK ICK-CAI

" KLAiii:Kr\"

CLIMIIINC Tf) rilK MOKAIXK CARRVIXC A SLKDCK

I'.XCKINC .

DOCS AT rilK MORAIXK . VIKW KROM TIIK 1CK-C.\I'

HARD AT WORK

IN CAMl"

"'I'lIK DIM GRi;V SUXLKSS LICIiT" C.XRCOVLI', CLIKK. MT. HARTLKIT

IIK.\l)l'li:CK

ICKI'.KRCr AXD VOUNC; ICK

CR()SS-Si;CTION ri'.ARV ARCilC IIOUSK

AXXIVKRSARV LODCK, PLAN

ANXiVi:RS.\RV LO')c;K, LONGITUDINAL SKCTIOX

AXXIVKRSARV LOlXiE, CROSS-SECTION

TIIK LOIXip;

M\- SUITK OF APARTMENTS .

I)i;i*ARrUKK OK SUX

"Till': GIIASTLV PALLOR OF A WHirE AND FROZEN LANDSCAPE"

VMiV. 2|7

24S

2.\iJ -.SO

-5'

252

254 -55

-57

-5')

JdO 2(il

^<'.?

267 j()S 269 270

271 272

-^74 276

277 27S 2.S0 2S1

2S4

2S() 2S7 2S,S 2S() 291

2i)6

-97

2<>S

299 300 304 305 3o() 30S 310 3J2 314 3'6

3>8 320

XLVG

Illustrations

I'AII.IMI'.CE

M.I.I Mil-; DOGS

ni;.\i)rii;cK . ' " " •NrMi.koLs c;i,.\('ii;k's i\ (;i' miV

MAI'.\MK TI;M.IK(,||.V\, '' ""

MINS TKI.I.IKO'IJWH

K.Msi:i) i;i;ACiii:s

iiii: iiiki) CI, IMS

I'AKKlik sNow |!\Y '

< llliDkIA (.!•• .\riKi\(;w'A,,- "

ii'KAnNK/T' •^''^"■^^^'"^^ : :

llo.MKWAkI) liorxi

< C'OSTUMK W()()|)|;.\ l.Kr; -•

W MAX IN Kri.l, WI.VTKk v "rMMP. (OMKokTAIll K All I

"A IK IOTA II OF Till ^

niki,i,i|.: .

'i'vi'i'; cosru.MKs ' ' ' "

IIKADI'llKl.; .

wi.\!|.;r visrroKs

•AN' AkCTIC I.ArXhkKSS " M.ASII-|,|(;iir S!ll)\ l'I.A.S||-|.|(;iiT sriDv' I'l.ASII-I.IGHT S!li)\ I'l.ASII-LKJiiT STri)\' FI.ASlJ-I.KJiri' srUDY ' FI.ASII-|,|(;iir sil|)\-' M.ASII-I.Kiiij- SITDV '

MMi'^r'i^'" ^lO'llKk'S liUkDEX LANS II-,

A WIXIKk XKiin'

IIKADI'IKCI.;

AN L'i'-Ck \I)|.;'

i':i.AriX(;\\Aii . ' ' ' "

MVOLKSOAII KSKIMo ( IIII.DkKX

A t:AXAL

TIIK

<>l; l!l,ACK WATKk AT ITS

siM,i;xi)oik

su\

Mi;\i)ix(

SAVA(;|.: I i LACK I

FOOT

\ KA.MIK

OVKR OK TIIK NORTH

i>i':< K.MiJKk MooxLicin

KlOSllOO .

•KKTOO" ,\XI) -"rooKV"

KKATK (JKAC IKR

TOWSKR .

I.IOX ..■■■•

A\ ARCTIC lIROxXZK

HKADI'IKCK

UAHY I.AKK .

\\ati;r

<)1. Tl IK north' WATKR

)S

XI

327

.5.37 .yV) .v»o ,M-' JI.5 ,1^4

.54.' .547

35'

353

354

^^<>

357

35y

560

.V'-'

3<^>^ 3f'5 ](<()

3<'7

,:)(,S

3''9

372

373

.374

37<'>

377

37')

3^0

jS::

3\3 3N4

.5'^5 3^7

3'^9

390

304

395

396

397

3'J^

Xll

Illustrations

KS

IK I

Al

KOODI.OOKTOO

"I'AMKI'AII OF THK OLD CiLAKD" .

I ROST i;vi;R(;kKKNs

MV C()Mi;i;-pu'i-

SKAL AM) IHNTKK

'A I'.rXOM AM) ()i,i:AGIN"OUS LADY" .

ALAKAIISI.\(]\VAII

All TonKSl NdWAH .....

Aiiw i;aii(;()()Di,<)()

Ri;iUR\ OF III]': SU.N

AH TL NGAUXAKSO.MI

l.SKIMO DRAWING.S

DRA'VIXCS OF A i4-\KAR-Ol.n ESKLMO CIRI

ARRO'l'OK.So.MI

CAl'i; .\LF.\.\.\DKR

iii;Ai)rii';( !•;

sii'.si-

I'l'-.lllRAHW IK

KOODI.AII .... ...

TWO MAI'S OF COA.ST BY DIFFIIRFNT .V.XTl

FSKIMO I'.OY

K.SKI.MO DRAWINt;

,\ CIOOI) JOKE

I'l.A.X AN'I) .SECTIOX OF SXOW KILOO AT I'l \\ARMI\(i HIS WIFE'S COLD FITri" .

IH;Ai) Oh l't)LAR I!1;AR

WOMEX I'REI'ARIXG A BEARSKIX RETLRMNC; FROM I'I;TI;RAII W IK

T.MLI'IIXE

THE I.ODiiE IX WLXrER

iii;Ai)i'ii;(E

SOKER

Ul* Tin; LAXI)W.\RI) SLOPES OF THE Ri;-C

M\' ESKIMO COMRADES

A SHELTER

LEE AND Till'; "LOXC SERPENT"

.\ CAMP

EI'.EDLXC Till'. DOC.S

NOOKTAH AXI) rili; '•JOSEPHINE" .

(;oOD-l!YE

'IIII-: GORDIAX KXOT WAS NOWIIERI':

tup: DisAsri'.R at the four-iiini)Ri;i)Tii Li:i': AND HIS firi:place ....

M.VTT .\XD Till'; TEX r-SLEDGP; ... LOOKING DOWN ox THE XORrilllRN LAXD MA'l rillAV A. IILXSON

iii':.\i)pie( e

ice-c:ap crevassI': "

' rilRi;!'. I'.XIIAISTED MEN AND NINE STARV

MORALXi; CONE

THE NORTHERN LAND FROM THE MoRAIN

OCR p.oui.DER siielti;r

"HE SANK OX HIS HAINCHES"

"wrrii A p.ui,li:t hack of the fore shoulder'

DEAD MUSK-OX

\p

MI

ED

W I K

Lp;

DOC

I'AtlK

400 401

40:;

■|0,^

.104

405 40() 40S 409 410 4rj 414

415 41.S

419 420 421 4-2 4-^3 4-4

4-5 4-^6

A -7 42S 429 430 432 433 435 437 4j'^ 441

44- 444

445 446 44S

449 450 451 453 454 455 456 460 46 r 463 464 467 46S 470 472

475 477

Illustrations

Xlll

DOGS

l!nl!pur-'H;'''P'"^'^' SHADOWS WE CAF [.KD SOMIIRI'. .NORTHKRX l.ANDSC \1'F

HIUWI lOlINSON LFK

IJKADI'IKCI': .

SAMIJO, IFIK MUSK-rAI.F

"MLSK-ox IS VKKV GOOD"

STIIJ, I'USIHVG ()\

< ATARACT OF THE ACAT)F\rV GI.A( IKr' LOOKING ACROSS ACADEMY (H.ACIER GETTING WEARY AGAIN " '

A SHORT REST

MY En'TEE THEODOEITE

THE MORAINE FROM TIIK E \Nl>

VIEW NEAR ICE-CAI' . ' '

TAIEPIFCE^'^''^''^^ WHITE SEORE OF THE "GREAT

SOME OF MY "iNSTRlMENTS

HEADPIECE .

DINNER-TIME .

DRIFTED IN . .

OUR TRAIL ACROSS THE FROZEN SAHARA Till'. "PATHFINDER" .

SIX . .

FIVE . .

THREE . .

TWO ...

"AT LAST THE WH,\LE-s'oUND

"THE SOFT MOTTLED SURFACE

THE SOEE SURVIVOR .

"FAITHFUL NOP.LE SERVITORS"

MIDNIGHT CALM

HEADPIECE . .

THE SHORE LEAD

JULY MIST-WREATHS.

ALONG THE SCULPTURED CLIFF.S

CASCADE IN THE SCULi'TURFD f

".^HSS ItlEE" AND HER FAMILY

THE GIIASTEY ROCKS OF C\PE

SAVIKSO.MI 1!A^• .

AN AUGUST S.XOWSroRM

COXE ISLAND, JONES' SOUND

WILXLER EMERGIN(; FROM THE FOG

.W;-, 'i.!!-'-^^''^ -^'I' "■••XTERITY HA I VILLAGE OF WEST-COAST ESK

HARIJOUR . ESKIMO W(JMAN A'T DIA'TI-RiTY ' TAILPIECE MAP SHOWING LOCA't'ion'oI

OF •' HOPE" IN iSo- HEADPIECE . . '

"TEXT" OR "AHNIGFHTO" METEORITE EASTERN PART OF METEORITE ISI PANORAMA OF SITE OF SAVIKSUE METEORITE LSLAND, FROM TOP OF

TAIN ...

ICE

SUMMITS" . OF THE PAY

LIFFS S A PINE

Ki!OU IMOS

AT DEXTl'.R

HA R POUR SA\-IKSUi;'

AND VOV

\NI) S.\viKS(')AIl' MO

T\

(;i

/'iliYS

479

4S4

4.S5 4S()

4.S7 4,S9

49' 4')3 495 496 497 4')9 501 502

503

5o()

507

508

^09

50

5'2

5'3

5'4

S'5

5^(>

5 '9

5-1

5-^

5-3

5j6

5^7 5-^ 5-9 531

531 3:/' x,^ 539 54 > 543 545

54,S .549

55^ 553

555 557 S5«

559

XIV

Illustrations

THK ICE FERRY-HOAT

Till-:

1 )()(;

HAULIN'C THE

DOC

OVER THE ROCKS

ACROSS THE HAY HE

MOVINO 'I'lIE

WOMAN" 0\ ROLLERS

"KITE" DOCKED IX THE ICE

THE

TENT" OR "AIINIOIHTO" I\ SITU

THE "SAVIKSUE" AS LEl-T IN 1S96 . CARRYIN(i THE HUNDRED-TON JACK ROAD FOR THE METKORITE . AFTER A HALF REVOLUTION

TWO OF MY HYDRAULIC JACKS

THE METEORITE ON MY RETURN IN 1897 .

THE "HOI'E" AT METEORITE ISLAND, AUG. 17, 1S97

CAPTAIN JOHN MARTLETT ....

THE MASONIC GROUP

LAUNCIIIN(; THE "AHNIGHITO" ON BOARD

CROSSING THE IIRIDGI',

THE ESKIMOS' FAREWELL TO THE " SAVIKSOAH

A MOMENTARY HITCH

"STOP THE WINCH"

METEORITE IN THE HATCH COMUINGS . RAMMING THE ICEHERG HARRIER

MY ESKIMO LAHOURKRS

WORKING UNDER THE METEORITE .

MI'lTEORITE AT 'TWEEN-DECKS LEVEL .

REMAINS OF GREELY HOUSE AT CAPE SAHINE

HOISTING METEORITE OUT OF THE "HOPE"

THE S'lORM UNDER THE LEE OF WOLSTENHOLM ISLAND

THE "DOG" IN SITU

RELATIVE SIZES OF "SAVIKSUE" AND SIX-FOOT MAN

THE "AHNIGHITO" IN SITU .

THE "W(JMAN" IN SITU ....

PILE OF TRAP COHHLES ABOUT THE "WOMAN"

SHOWING SURFACE OF "AHNIGHITO" METEORITE

WIDMANSTATTEN FIGURES OF "AHNIGHIT(J" AND

"WOMAN"

ANCIENT ESKIMO KNIVES MADE FROM METAL OF THI

"SAVIKSUE"

ANCIENT ESKIMOS OBTAINING METAL FROM THE

"WOMAN"

THE SCULPTOR'S STUDIO ON METEORITE ISLAND HOMEWARD BOUND WITH THE STAR STONE CIRCUMPOLAR CHART (IIEILPRIN) ....

560

562 563

■;66 567 569 570 57' 573 575 577 579 5S0

5S1 582

583 5«5 5S6

5X7 588 589 590 591 592 595 596 597 59« 599 601 603 60s

607 613

61 S 616

618

/aces C18

t

PART III.

I I

I

i

NORTH-GREENLAND EXPEDITION OF I 893- I 894.

chaptp:r I.

PHII,ADKLI'1IIA TO CAPE YORK.

The F..,LcoAr Reaches PurLADELPHiA-NEw York, Boston, Porti and St. John s-Batti.k Harhour. Labrador-Moravian Missions Hopk' half: AND Okkak-Lahrador Eskimos-Through Hell Gate and the Ice Pack to Grkknlanu-Ckossino the Arctic Circlk-Holste.nborg AND Godhavn-a Breath of the Tkopics-Upernavik and Tash-s-vk- Mv Arctic Roosters-The Duck Islands-Across Melville Bav- The Quickest Run on Record.

■"" U|i.UWl'l"'Wl'»»!II

ESKIMO GIRL OF UPERNAVIK.

CHAPTER I.

PHILADELPHIA TO CAl'L YORK.

F

R I D A Y morning-, June 23, 1893, was

disciirree-

/

raw and able, with a light, drizzling rain, as my tug cast off from a Philadelphia pier, and went puffing down the dull grey expanse of the Delaware to meet the Falcon. A week and a day before, the cable had flashed the news of her departure from St. John's, and the day before, the wire had brou^rht tidinofs from the breakwater that she had been sighted there. The rain gradually ceased, the clouds began to break away, and when, just below Wilmington, we swung round alongside a trim black- hulled, )'ellow-masted bark, with two white crow-nests far up aloft, the stormy morning had merged into a perfect day.

At five in the afternoon she was fast at her pier, which had kindly been offered for her us(; by Sui:)er- intendent vSweigartl, of the Reading Railway. For the next three days she lay at this i)i(;r, the centre of interest for thousands of visiting Philadelphians. In

3

4 Northward over the "Great Ice"

the midst of the throng; of visitors, as opportunity of- fered, the various items of her misceihineous supplies were brouL(ht on board : amoni; these, a steam launch an oil burner named in honour of one to whom I was under lastinij^ oblij^ations. Gen. I. J. Wistar ; two whale-boats, the Mary Peary and the Faith, compan- ions of the last expedition, and which, throui^h the courtesy of Commodore Kirkland, U. S, N., had been stored at the League Island Navy Yard ; the six dogs,

THE "FALCON."

Pau, Lion, Ahngodoblaho first and second, Merkto- shar, Panikpah, my noble assistants on the " White March," and companions through the three months' lecture tour, by which I had raised a large portion of the sinews of war for the expedition ; the carrier- pigeons which were to carry messages through the White North ; and last, the queer little ragged-coated, long-eared, pathetic-eyed burros that had come from far-oft Santa P^e to serve as material for a somewhat

Philadelphia to (Jape \'ork 5

novel ('xpL-riiiK'nt in arctic nu-thotis. l^'or three days, hinulrc:ds of visitors pattc.-d the do^s, j)itied the burros, and clinii)ed over and into I'ver)' part of the Falcon, then, at niidnii^^ht of the . .th, she slipjjed out from the |)ier, and tlropped with the ehh-title down the Delaware. Two days later, the ol)server at Sandy Hook iaw a strani^e black craft steam iuLj^ up from the southward ; and passing' up through the lower bay, with all her buntinL,^ IIuul; out, the Falcon [jointed her black nose towards one of the I^rooklyn wharvt;s, in the shadow of the i^reat bridii;^e, and late in the after- noon was aofain fast with the mooriuLT lines. Three days of curious visitors here, interspersed with stowinu; on board sev- eral thousand pounds of pemmican, the pro- visions for the party, the arms and ammuni- tion, the hardware and miscellaneous articles, li^athered from north and south and east and west to their rendezvous here, and then late Sun- day afternoon the Fal- con cast off her lines and steamed up the East River, just as the little Kite had done twoyears before, amid the cheers, the wavinuf of handker- chiefs, and the deafen-

inir whistles from the ahngodoblaho.

eveninor Heet of Sound steamers, and dipping' flails and tootino- whistles from

Northward over the "Great Ice"

every other craft in and aloni^ the riv(T. hifty hours later, witli sprin;^ and how and stt:rn lines taut, the Falcon was huiTLrin''- historic Constitution Wharf in Boston, the flutterinL,^ flails at her tops irlowinij in the last rays of the settinij 4th-of-July sun. From the very n(;xt siij), years ajj^o, had started out Dr. Kane's Kxpedition. Here for two days, from early morniuL^ till late; in the evening, crowds of interested Bostonians clambered over the ship, left presents,

'/

N^

/ ,-^

S»d9

^W

\'m

r

--sk ,^

'sUf'^y

THE BURROS.

souvenirs, and cards on board, or, lackin^^ these, wrote God-speed and wishes for success in every available nook and corner.

Leavini^f Boston at eiLfht o'clock in the evening, the run to Portland was made during- the niij^^ht, and a couple of hours before noon of the next day the Fal- con, attain with buntinj^ streaming- from every mast, steamed through the maonificent seaward irate of Port- land harbour, past the familiar scenes of my boyhood, and up to her berth at Custom-House Pier, amid the

i

Philadelphia to Cape \()rk 7

shrill scrcaminL,^ of whistles and tutj^-hoats darting; here and there. Only a day could he spared here to ^Wti old friends and acc[uaintances a chance to see the arc- tic ship, and this clay was utilised to t^^ather in a few last articles of ecpiii^ment, which, failinL; to he deliv- ered in time at Phihidelphia or New York, had been traced and hurried up by teleu^raph to reach the ship here. The one ni<dit in Portland was taken advan- taL^e of by the city L^overnment to i^ive the party a farewell banquet, and by at least one of the departin^r expedition that banquet was most deeply enjoyed and appreciated.

Saturday afternoon, July 8th, the Falcon swunj^ away from her pier in Portland harbour. At the same mo- ment, from another pier farther up the harbour, a little tut; came puffinj^^ out, with Mrs. Peary, myself, and one or two other members of the expedition, accompanied by Professor Heilprin, to board the Falco)i in mid- stream. It was a glorious day, and the familiar shores and islands of the harbour wore their most charminir as- pect in the brilliant summer sunshine. We responded to the salutes from Cape (Ilottaj^eand other residences along the shore road as we steamed out, and at two o'clock the pilot left us off Ram Island Ledi^e, and, laying- a course to clear Halfway Rock Light, we were at last fairly started on our northward \o)age.

I had hoped to visit for an hour or so my little Eagle Island, but our direct course was too far from it, and I did not care to delay the ship solely for that, so I was content to see its Lrreen dome standing: out against the misty background of beautiful Casco Bay. As the sun went down, the wind fresliened, raising a little sea, which thumped against the weather-bow, and occasionally came splashing up on the cjuarter-deck. When darkness settled upon us, the water was alive with phosphorescence, and startled tishes, darting

s

Northward over the "Great Ice

away from tin- sliip's sicU?, caused llaslu.'s like the l;1ow of suinincr Iicat-li^htniiiL^.

It is a stranL,^(j slight that the Fa/cojis (Xv.cV. presents. Forward, on the starboard side, art^ the e'iL,dit httle burros, munchini,^ continuously at their hay, and sel-

OUR STATEROOM.

dom showinii any sisjfns of animation beyond the slow liftinLT of an ear. Poor little fellows I lust across the deck from the burros, are the two Ahnt^^odoblaho doij^s. One of them has already come to the conclusion that the burros are ltoocI to eat. and makes frantic efforts

Philadelphia to Cai)c \'ork 9

to f(('t at thcni. AIoiil; cither siilc ot the tU'ck-housc. arc i>ilcil the l.'ales of hay. and in the waist of the sliip, alon^j- l)otli rails, is a continuous row of oil l)arrcls.

PassiuLC down the {■onipanion-way. nnnicdiatciN- \n front is the door Icadini,^ to the main cahin, and. cn- tcrini^^ this, a door is sct-n opcninLi both to port and starhoaril from it. On th(; |)ort side, the iloor Icails to a scries of three staterooms in line, with accommo- dations for eight of the party, and on the left the door

BATTLE HARBOUR, LABRADOR.

leads to our own little stateroom, scarcely, if any, larij^er than the one on the A'/A', hut somewhat more con- veniently arranij^ed, and much more pleasant from the addition of a circular swinL^ini^' port in the ship's side, directly above the berth. The washstand. a small chest of drawers built aij^ainst the wall, and a box stood on end to assist in climbini^- into the narrow bunk comprise the furniture- of this little room.

Late Wednesday afternoon. Cape; Fines, on the southern Newfoundland coast, was siirhttxl off the port

lO

Northward over the •* Great Ice

bow, and wlu-n tlu' late sunset came, the bluffs of tlic cape, only a few miles from us, with a little white liL;ht- house j)erch(rcl u|)f)n their top, wen- thrown into sharp rtilief a_L,niinst the crimson i^lories of tile western skw About midnJLiht we rounded Caj)e Kaci-. and at sexcn o'clock Iduirsday niornin^, when 1 came on deck, the ^iant rock portal of St. John's harbour was directly ahi;ad of us, the familiar red-brown cliffs on either side

K

riowuiL^ m

th(

hriL

ht

mornunj' sunsliini

Stoppinj^- at St. John's only lonj;' enoUL;h to fill with coal, the l'\xlcoii L;()t away on the 15th, and plout;h<'(l her way northward. In the waist antl forward, her deck was washed constantly, and the poor little burros stootl kni;e-di'ep in the; watc'r. Idle rain and wind, the latter always disat^rc'eable to the I'^skimo (Iol;, kept these four-footed frienils of mine in a constant state of vociferous protest ai^ainst the weather. About ten o'clock I missetl m\' irrev Ahnivodoblaho doL(, and after an unsuccessful search, we at last dis- covered the rope and harness b)- which he had been fastened, liani^nnLj over the ship's side, near where he had been the niofht before.

Poor fellow ! I mourned him all day loni^. ThouLjh possessini^, perhaps, the least stamina of any of the surviving doi^s of the 1892 Inland-Ice journey, he had durinij^ his sojourn in civilisation Ivjcome the most affectionate of th(; team, and had even learned some civilised customs, such, for instance, as shaking' hands. It seemetl a pity that, after liavinij^ L^one throuj^h so much, he shoidd have been lost at this time, and, like one of Hall's Eskimos, have died on his way home, just after he had seen the first ice.

On the 17th, after a niL,dit of heavy weather off the Strait of Belle Isle, weather in which two of my bur- ros succumbed, the Falcon touched into Battle Harbour on the Labrador coast, to purchase do^^s. There is a

I :l

Philaclcl|)hia to Ca[)L' York

II

wild view from here of wiiul-sucpt j^^rcy sea, Jotted with A lUiiiuTous licet of iceluTi^s, and fadiiiL^ away in the distance into the •■hroudinL; foi;. I he rocks and shores of this coast, to my mind, are more som- bre and cU:s()late in aj)j)earance than t\\v. shores of (Greenland as far north as Dis- co Bay, almost twenty de^aec'S hii^^her latitude. The scattered patches of moss and turf are bright with llovv- ers. and I saw two or three spar- rows IlittiuL^ over the ij^rey rocks.

Aiy efforts to obtain doLi^s met with little suc- cess, and at earli- est daylijj^ht we s t e a m e d out across the breezy white-cai)s of St. ivewis Sound. Late in the after- noon, we beiran

throus

LABRADOR ESKIMO MAN.

Moravian Mission.

.->

to run

streaks of fou-, and the iceberirs seemed more numer ous. At nine o'clock we rounded Wolf Rock and hauled more to the w(;stward alonu^ the now recedini^ Labrador coast. The nicjfhts were now decreasin^r

!->

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